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A Restaurant Without a Shingle

Virtual restaurants started before the pandemic, but the explosion in delivery and curbside pickup has sped things up

Plastic container with takeout chicken wings
Photo: EasyBuy4u/Getty Images

I had Cajun-seasoned chicken wings and curly fries today from It’s Just Wings, a restaurant that doesn’t actually exist. The wings were just fine.




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John I. Carney

John I. Carney

Author of “Dislike: Faith and Dialogue in the Age of Social Media,” available at

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