GASTRO-NOMICS

How Taco Bell Secretly Built a Huge Vegan Cult Following

In just a few short years, the chain behind the Beefy 5-Layer Burrito has managed to become an obsession of vegans and vegetarians

Adam Chandler
Marker
Published in
4 min readMar 24, 2021

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A photo illustration with Taco Bell’s cheesy potato soft taco floating above a white column. The column has the letter “G” embossed and is surrounded by streaks of purple and yellow.
Photo Illustration: Save As/Medium; Source: Taco Bell

Earlier this month, like Simba returning from exile, Taco Bell’s potatoes were officially restored to the company’s menu board — Spicy Potato Soft Taco and all. This wasn’t a small-fry development guided by a simple seasonal shift or some limited-time promotion; it was the result of a several-month fusillade by the brand’s starch and vegetarian loyalists, who had been furious at the company for removing potatoes last summer.

Ever since its controversial “menu simplification,” Taco Bell quite literally couldn’t post on social media without encountering some grief about bygone potatoes. (One fairly representative comment on an Instagram post featuring a happy couple reenacting “Lady and the Tramp” with a taco: “Y’all prob took their relationship off the menu too.”)

“I feel like I’ve almost heard from everybody in the country on the potato bites,” Liz Matthews, global chief food innovation officer at Taco Bell, told CNN.

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Adam Chandler
Marker
Writer for

Journalist. Author of Drive-Thru Dreams. The Atlantic alum. Work in The New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Washington Post, Texas Monthly, and elsewhere.