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The Death of the $15 Salad

How pizza won the pandemic—and Sweetgreen got left behind

A pizza box, a bucket of drumsticks, and a salad bowl in free fall, as the pizza and drumsticks bucket high-five each other.
Illustration: Erik Blad

The best meal I had all pandemic cost $1.14 and took about 90 seconds to make. It was a Margherita pizza inhaled in the car on a desolate day in late April. I know the precise cost because my husband is the chef who made it: 61 cents for a few slices of fresh buffalo mozzarella, 24 cents for the San Marzano tomatoes and…

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Moe Tkacik

Moe Tkacik

senior fellow at the American Economic Liberties Project, co-founder of Jezebel, former Wall Street Journal reporter, off-again waitress, mommy