The Shocking Meltdown of Ample Hills — Brooklyn’s Hottest Ice Cream Company

They had $19 million, a deal with Disney, and dreams of becoming the next Ben & Jerry’s. Then everything fell apart.

Courtney Rubin
Marker

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A GIF animation of a two-scoop mint chocolate chip ice cream cone melting onto a sidewalk.
Animation by Julia Roe for Marker

The after-school rush had just ended one weekday in the spring of 2015 when the phone rang at the Vanderbilt Avenue location of Ample Hills Creamery, the Brooklyn ice cream brand famous for its whimsical and elaborate flavors. Scooper Jason Smith answered the call, expecting to tell some customer what time they closed or that, yes, they still had Nonna D’s, a brown sugar cinnamon ice cream with oatmeal cookies. But it wasn’t just any customer, it was Oprah Winfrey, the kingmaker of modern media, calling to say how much she liked the company’s Ooey Gooey Butter Cake and Salted Crack’d Caramel.

Ample Hills was barely four years old, but even before Oprah called, it was clear the company had struck a chord. Ample Hills’ married co-founders Brian Smith (no relation to Jason) and Jackie Cuscuna, had opened their first shop in Brooklyn’s Prospect Heights neighborhood in 2011, and almost immediately sold out of 130 gallons of homemade ice cream. The musician (and known foodie) Questlove started coming by for sundaes. On warm summer days, lines stretched out the door, and seven employees would somehow manage…

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