Illustrations: Glenn Harvey

Unlucky Charms: The Rise and Fall of Billion-Dollar Jewelry Empire Alex and Ani

Astrology, private equity, a $1.1 billion gender discrimination lawsuit, and a precariously built bangle behemoth

Aaron Gell
Marker
Published in
43 min readJul 8, 2020

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Patent No. US D487,709 S was granted on March 23, 2004, to Carolyn Rafaelian-Ferlise of Cranston, Rhode Island. The application captured the concept in a mere five words: “an expandable wire bangle bracelet.” Further details would have been superfluous. The bracelet’s design, as illustrated in a set of accompanying renderings, was astonishingly straightforward, familiar to hard-core rock climbers and Eagle Scouts as a double fisherman’s or a grapevine knot. Somehow, though, no one had ever thought to patent it for jewelry.

Rafaelian, a thirtysomething mother of two daughters, and her sister had recently taken the reins of the modest jewelry factory Cinerama, Inc., launched by her father nearly four decades before. The company had been successful, providing a good living and helping pay for private schools for the family’s five siblings, but its future was far from clear. Cranston, a suburb of Providence, was once the thriving hub of the costume jewelry trade; in the 1970s, nearly 80% of the baubles sold in the U.S. were made in the area. But in recent decades, the market was flooded with cheap…

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Aaron Gell
Marker
Writer for

Medium editor-at-large, with bylines in the New Yorker, Vanity Fair, the New York Times and numerous other publications. ¶ aarongell.com